Road Cycling Around Lago di Garda

Apr 5
6 min read

Easter time almost traditionally calls for a ride around a large lake. Most high alpine passes are still buried under snow, but spring has already arrived in the valleys. This time, we are heading for Italy’s most famous lake — Lago di Garda.

04/ 2026

Lago di Garda – A Lake Between the Alps and the Mediterranean

Lago di Garda is the largest lake in Italy and one of the most fascinating natural transition zones in the Southern Alps. It stretches across three regions — Lombardy, Veneto and Trentino. Its shape is the result of ancient glacial erosion, which carved out the narrow northern section and the much broader southern basin. With a little imagination, the lake resembles a long pear on the map.

Within just a few dozen kilometres, the climate, terrain and overall character of the landscape change dramatically. The northern part is squeezed between steep limestone walls. Here, the lake is narrow, deep and almost fjord-like, with mountains dropping directly into the water. In contrast, the southern section near Peschiera del Garda and Sirmione opens into a broad plain with a distinctly Mediterranean feel. Riding around Garda becomes a small expedition through several completely different landscapes within a single day.

Wind also plays an important role here and strongly influences many sports activities. In the morning, the northern wind known as Pelèr descends from the mountains toward the south. At that time, the northern section of the lake is usually calmer, making it ideal to start the loop from the north early in the day. Around noon, conditions reverse and the Ora begins to blow from the broad southern basin toward the narrow northern end, where sailors and windsurfers then take over the water. The second half of the ride can therefore offer a welcome tailwind.

Starting in the north is an easy decision, but the direction still needs to be chosen. Heavy traffic awaits almost everywhere, so that alone does not help much. More important are the tunnels on the western shore. We definitely do not want to climb through those uphill, so it makes more sense to ride the western side from south to north. Clockwise direction also wins for one more reason — the views. That is why we came here after all, and having the lake constantly on the right-hand side simply feels better.

Decision made. In the morning, we leave Riva del Garda heading toward Torbole, Malcesine and farther south.

Riva del Garda – The Northern Gateway to the Lake

The northernmost tip of the lake becomes our starting point. A town connected to the water on one side and enclosed by cliffs on the other two — to the west rises the ridge culminating in Cima SAT, while to the east stands the unmistakable shape of Monte Brione separating Riva from Torbole.

Riva has a long history as both a trading and defensive point between Italy and northern Europe, something still reflected in its architecture and atmosphere today. The historic centre consists of several small squares dominated by the waterside fortress Rocca di Riva and the Torre Apponale, reminders of the era when the town served as an important harbour at the northern edge of the lake.

Above the town stands the Bastione di Riva del Garda, built in the early 16th century by the Venetian Republic. Constructed to defend Riva against attacks from the north, it never fully served its military purpose. Recently restored and connected to the town by a modern funicular, it now offers panoramic views to visitors rather than protection from invaders. Higher above, the Chapel of Saint Barbara glows at night, while one of the region’s famous via ferratas — Via Ferrata dell’Amicizia — passes nearby.

From Riva, we follow the cycling path toward Torbole and gradually turn south.

The Eastern Shore Beneath Monte Baldo

The road follows the shoreline and cuts through several short tunnels. One of them pierces directly through the popular climbing crag Corno di Bò. With the morning wind at our backs, we arrive in Malcesine, lying at the foot of Monte Baldo (2,218 m), whose white summit still contrasts sharply with the almost summer-like weather by the lake.

A cable car starts directly in town, carrying tourists and mountain bikers nearly to 1,800 metres above sea level. On the opposite side of the mountain there are even a few short ski slopes — though we do not see them. We have other concerns. Our attention is occupied mainly by weaving through increasingly dense traffic.

The views continue to open up. Looking south, the lake feels endless. To the left, houses and vineyards alternate; to the right, sailboats occasionally appear as we pass one small town after another.

Soon we ride past the stone towers of the medieval Castello Scaligero di Torri del Benaco in Torri del Benaco, whose origins may date back to Roman times. Today it houses an interesting ethnographic museum dedicated to local traditions, including fishing on Garda and olive cultivation, together with a botanical garden and a historic lemon greenhouse.

Toward the town of Garda, the road bends sharply and climbs gently around Monte Luppia as the lake opens into its broad southern basin. The alpine lake gradually transforms into an almost Mediterranean landscape. Olive trees, cypresses, vineyards and rolling hills give the region an entirely different rhythm.

After Bardolino, yet another world appears. A strip of holiday resorts separates us from the water, punctuated by the wild structures of huge amusement parks.

The Flat Hot South and a Bit of History

We enter Peschiera del Garda via the main road. In the morning we were riding between cliffs; now it almost feels like Venice. The fortified historic centre, with its walls, bastions and canals dating from the 16th century, forms a compact complex listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We do not even manage to reach the castle peninsula in Sirmione. We push through crowded streets all the way to the walls, but the fortress itself is closed to cyclists, and pedestrians are only allowed in as others leave. It is usually crowded here anyway, but today it is Easter Sunday on top of that.

The Castello Scaligero di Sirmione is a majestic and perfectly preserved medieval fortress overlooking the lake. Built in the 13th century by the Scaliger family, it served to defend and control the harbour later expanded by the Venetian Republic. Its dominant feature is a 47-metre-high tower.

We manage to hunt down some food and ice cream to replenish sugar reserves before continuing through the heat toward Desenzano del Garda and Salò. Here we join the SP38 road that will complete the loop back north. It is already afternoon and the wind has just turned, meaning it will help us once again.

Tunnels and views on the west side

ahead. We stop while we still can. A café in Gardone Riviera earns top marks, and we continue through Maderno and Gargnano.

From here, the road gains elevation and the views of the lake shift yet again. The climbing almost feels peaceful — a brief calm before the storm of long tunnels and roaring motorcycles.

This is where the advantage of riding clockwise becomes obvious. The first major tunnel, Galleria d’Acli, is downhill in this direction. Even though we are moving quickly, cars and screaming motorbikes still overtake us. The noise inside the tunnel is absolutely deafening.

This time, we stay along the lakeshore and skip the iconic Strada della Forra (SP38), considered one of the most beautiful roads in the world. After reconstruction, it reopened in March 2026, currently for one-way uphill traffic only.

A discreet turn-off between the tunnels beyond Campione del Garda leads through tunnels and hairpins into the wild gorge toward Tremosine sul Garda. Opened in the early 20th century, it remains an engineering masterpiece. Over six kilometres, the road climbs roughly 400 vertical metres before ending at spectacular viewpoints above the lake.

Strada della Forra also appeared in the Bond movie Quantum of Solace. In the opening chase scene, James Bond races his Aston Martin first along the lakeside road before turning onto the legendary Strada della Forra itself.

Limone, lemons and the Cycle Path

For a final change of pace, we leave the main road and descend into the historic centre of Limone sul Garda. This is where the cycle path supposedly begins — at least according to the map. In reality, we roll down a cobbled alley lined with bright yellow shops.

Everything here revolves around lemons — T-shirts, bags, magnets, limoncello — all inspired by the town’s name. Even refreshing lemon ice cream served inside hollowed-out lemon peels with yellow napkins.

Although lemons were indeed cultivated on terraces above the lake in this originally fishing village, the town’s name supposedly comes from the Latin word limes, meaning border.

In the past, Limone could only be reached by boat or mountain trails. Only during the last century did a road finally connect it to the outside world. The cycle path itself remains an unfinished project.

After weaving through the centre and climbing a narrow twisting lane with constantly changing surfaces and gradients, we finally reach the new suspended section hanging above the rocky lakeshore. It carries us perhaps halfway back toward Riva before abruptly ending, forcing us to hop over the guardrail and return to the road — straight into another long tunnel.