Cima Tosa in Winter Conditions

The Dolomiti di Brenta, the westernmost tip of the Southern Limestone Alps, form a rugged and distinctive massif that belongs to the UNESCO World Heritage of the Dolomites. Its second-highest peak, Cima Tosa (3,136 m), rises proudly between Molveno and Madonna di Campiglio — a striking limestone ridge requires some climbing moves for those who wish to reach the summit.

10 / 2025

Autumn Romance

After two sunny days of climbing on perfect limestone, north of Lake Garda, we decide to cool down a bit and welcome the first touches of winter. It’s late October, and the first snow is already whitening the highest peaks. I’ve already had to give up on Cima Tosa twice because of early snow — time to settle the score.

Autumn means shorter days and colder air, but also empty mountains, vivid fall colors, and snow-dusted summits glowing in the sun. We choose to approach from the west, from Madonna di Campiglio; the route from Molveno is longer and trickier, and... well, this one feels right

Vallesinella

Leaving the climbing crags behind, we turn from Sarche up into the mountains, pass through Tione di Trento for a quick supermarket stop, and begin the long climb toward Campo Carlo Magno Pass (I can’t help wishing I had my bike here…). Just below the pass we reach the famous resort of Madonna di Campiglio, then squeeze into the narrow road through Vallesinella Valley — hoping not to meet anyone coming down. A tight encounter with a construction truck adds a bit of drama before we finally reach the end of the road.

At 1,500 meters, we park the car. The real journey begins.

Up to the hut

There’s no rush today. Our goal is simply to reach the hut before dark — a comfortable three-and-a-half-hour hike with a snack break, gaining just over 1,000 meters over nine kilometers.

From the parking lot we cross the small bridge over the Sarca di Vallesinella stream. A short detour would take us to the top of the valley’s famous waterfalls, but we save our time. Signs confirm that all local huts are closed for the season — and that bears live here. 

The trail climbs steeply through forest and wooden steps to Rifugio Casinei, where we catch our first views — the snow line seems to sit around 2,500 meters. The slope eases after the junction to Rifugio Tuckett, and soon we spot our next destination: Rifugio Brentei (2,182 m). A sunny terrace snack offers spectacular views of jagged rocks of Crozzon di Brenta, Campanile Alto, Cima Brenta Bassa and Cima Brenta Alta, along whose flank runs the famous Via Ferrata delle Bocchette

Between those last two peaks lies our next ascent. Past a small chapel, the path traverses gently before the final snowy slope to Bocca di Brenta (2,552 m). The snow is firm, and we reach the saddle without crampons — careful but steady. Here we meet our only fellow hiker: a Czech teacher from Prague, enjoying the mountain silence of his autumn holidays.

Rifugio Pedrotti

Below us lies Rifugio Tommaso Pedrotti, currently under renovation. Workers are busy digging around a water pipe, so we can fill our bottles. The hut sits proudly on a rocky ledge between two massive towers, supplied in summer by a cable lift from Molveno. Now the crane swings lazily above the roof, where new solar panels gleam in the low sun. The chapel behind the hut, temporarily stuffed with furniture and mattresses, serves as a storage. When we try to stash our packs there, the caretaker quickly chases us off. 

Just below, hidden behind a rocky step, stands the historic Rifugio Tosa (2,439 m) — built in 1881 by the alpine club SAT, now serving as a winter shelter. There are eight bunk beds with blankets, a table, and plenty of cold mountain air. No stove, no luxury, but also no wind and no snow drifting in. That’s all we need.

Climbing to the snow

We repack our gear in the morning: one lighter pack for the summit, the other hidden behind a large rock by the trail. We set off at dawn, 6:00 sharp, following the path below the southern wall of Cima Brenta Bassa. The trail is dry at first, but soon turns snowy and steep. The morning sun begins to warm our backs, though the snow remains crisp and hard. Around 2,800 meters we encounter a short section of half-buried via ferrata before reaching the base of the climb.

The normal route on Cima Tosa ascends the southeast face, leaving trail no. 358 to climb a steep chimney (grade II+). It turns out to be a bit longer than expected, but the glint of bolts between icy holds is reassuring - at least we’ll be able to rappel down.

With the sun high enough to take off gloves, the climbing is pleasant though snowy, and I’m grateful for the rope on a few exposed moves. Above the chimney the terrain opens into terraced slopes. We put on crampons and use the ice axe for the final stretch. The slope gradually eases until we step onto the flat, frost-rimed summit plateau.

A tiny white statue on a metal tripod marks the top. We’ve made it.

The panorama is magnificent: the Brenta Dolomites spread all around us, while across the valley the Adamello–Presanella range gleams with early snow. To the south, beyond other mountains, lies Lake Garda, just 30 kilometers away in a straight line.

Time to go down

Now we only need to get down safely. The snow is softening fast, so we’re glad to rappel the chimney. Our single 60-meter rope does the job in three pitches. Below, we retrieve our stashed poles and pack, reorganize gear, and begin the descent.

The ascent time is usually listed as three hours, which we nearly matched, despite the snow. By noon we’re back at the hut, and three hours later we reach the car. The autumn sun lights up the forest in golden hues, and the whole valley is ours alone. By three o’clock we’re back safely and heading north toward the Brenner Pass.

Climb description and topo (in German):

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/cima-tosa-brenta-normalweg/