The climb up the windy peak is one of the famous challenges of the Tour de France, and not just because of the unpredictable weather. Many dramatic moments have unfolded here in the race's history, some of them with tragic outcomes. A cyclist who manages to climb the mountain from all three sides can join the local “club of crazies,” known as Cinglés du Mont Ventoux. This challenge is definitely worth the effort.
09/2024
The Bald, Windy Mountain
Mont Ventoux really deserves its name. The highest recorded wind speed here reached 320 km/h, and the Mistral wind, often exceeding 90 km/h, blows for 240 days a year. Just below the summit there is the pass named Col des Tempêtes (the Pass of Storms). The barren summit, with its white limestone, creates the impression that the peak is snow-covered all year round. This is why the giant mountain, known as the Géant de Provence, has earned the nickname Mont Chauve—the Bald Mountain. It's not the altitude (1,910 m) that makes the mountain so striking but rather its prominence. The bare ridge is visible from a great distance, especially from the vineyards and olive groves of lavender Provence. The summit is easily recognizable thanks to the 50-meter white telecommunications tower that rises from the limestone "lunar" landscape. In the 1950s, the tower replaced the original weather station built in 1882. Along with the observatory, an access road was constructed.
Three Times and Done?
Three paved roads lead up to Mont Ventoux. Each of the climbs is a challenge and completing all three in a single day is considered crazy. In 1988, Christian Pic pioneered this "craziness" and founded the Cinglés du Mont Ventoux club for other enthusiasts. He became its president, and anyone who completes all three ascents in one day is accepted as a member. Ten years later, a new category called Galérien was added, which includes a fourth off-road climb via a forest path. In 2007, Florence Girard became the first Bicinglé, meaning they completed the challenge of three ascents twice in one day, climbing a total of approximately 8,800 meters. As of September 2024, there are 452 registered "double crazies," nearly double that in the Galérien category, and more than 20,000 “regular” Cinglés. This is our plan.
First Climb from Bédoin
Distance: 21.5 km
Elevation gain: 1,620 m
Average gradient: 7.5%
Maximum gradient: 12.5%
The ascent from Bédoin is considered the toughest, probably because of the highest elevation gain. The climb starts at the southern foot of the mountain, in the wine-growing town of Bédoin. Above the vineyards and olive trees, the white ridge rises, its highest point marked by the massive transmission tower. It seems far away, but within two hours, we’ll be there.
Initially, the climb is gentle until it enters the forest, where the switchbacks become steeper. Since this climb is very popular, someone has taken the time to trim all the bushes along the road into neat cube shapes. Instead of ordinary shrubbery, the road is lined with carefully manicured greenery. Occasionally, the trees part, offering glimpses of our goal—the bare summit with the transmission tower.
Just above the tree line, the road from Sault joins from the right. Here lies Chalet Reynard, a mountain lodge now operating as a restaurant and a popular stop for ascending cyclists. Above the lodge are a few ski lifts and slopes.
The road continues for another six kilometers along the ridge, now traversing the lunar landscape of white limestone debris. The summit’s transmission tower and weather station gradually come closer. Two kilometers from the summit, we stop at the monument to Tom Simpson, the British cyclist who collapsed and died here during the 1967 Tour de France stage. Along with a high dose of amphetamines, dehydration contributed to his death. Cyclists passing by now leave water bottles at his monument.
The road is marked by yellow and black poles. We’re lucky with the weather, reaching the summit in completely calm conditions with clear skies. For this area, that's a rare anomaly. We wait in line for a summit photo, check out the souvenir shop, and descend to Malaucène.
Second Climb from Malaucène
Distance: 21.2 km
Elevation gain: 1,570 m
Average gradient: 7.5%
Maximum gradient: 14%
On the western slopes lies the village of Malaucène, with its picturesque medieval center, restaurants, and cycling souvenir shops along the main street. It’s connected to Bédoin by a 12-kilometer road along the foot of the mountain, winding through the forest via Col de la Madeleine (448 m). But we return the way we came and ascend Mont Ventoux for the second time. Just above the village, the road leads into the forest, and we begin climbing again. In the steepest sections, the gradient reaches 14%. Occasionally, there are expansive views northward, into the rugged landscape of limestone cliffs.
Less than 6 kilometers from the summit, there’s a turn-off to the Mont Serein resort. On the northern slopes, there are several more ski lifts. By this point, we’ve passed the steepest sections and enjoy the last few switchbacks sheltered by the forest. The views only open up just below the summit. We pass the modern radar dome, the Chapel of the Holy Cross, and the original weather station’s wooden tower, which has suffered considerably from the harsh climate. We reach the summit for the second time. There’s no line for the photo with the sign, which is covered in about a million stickers by now.
We descend into Sault, and as the forest turns into meadows and lavender fields, the historic town appears, bathed in the afternoon sun. The hundred-meter climb into the town center feels like a bit of an unfair finish to the longest descent.
Third Climb from Sault
Distance: 25.8 km
Elevation gain: 1,210 m
Average gradient: 4.7%
Maximum gradient: 12.5%
The climb from Sault covers the least elevation gain over the longest distance. That's why we save it for last, as it’s the easiest. Above the lavender plains, the summit looks incredibly far away. We’re soon back in the forest, and the gentle climb feels good. Occasionally, we still encounter other cyclists.
We stop at a picnic area in a curve, and notice a fox has come to check us out. The fox isn’t shy at all. A man gets out of a car and dumps something from a bag onto the grass. The fox poses like a model in exchange. "My friend," the man explains, armed with a huge camera. He’s one of those who have spent the whole day along the road, photographing arriving cyclists and handing out business cards where they can later buy their commemorative photo.
The sky darkens significantly, and the radar isn’t merciful. The last kilometer before Chalet Reynard becomes a sprint, and we take shelter under the toilet’s roof as the first raindrops fall. Everything else is closed, but we’re grateful for the cover. A rainbow, another shower, a double rainbow, yet another—there are still a few kilometers left.
The rain stops, and the wind drives clouds across the summit’s rocky fields. In the light of the setting sun, they briefly turn orange, then everything disappears into the mist. We pass an English woman, also on her third ascent of the day, and soon reach the tower. We can barely see its ground floor. A quick third summit photo, turn on the lights, and down into the fog. Side winds push against the bikes uncomfortably, and the deep cracks in the asphalt appear at the last moment.
In the forest, only occasional pockets of fog linger.
We’ve covered a total of 141 kilometers and climbed 4,470 meters during our three ascents of Mont Ventoux.
Final Recommendation: Do this adventure only in good weather!
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