Two Pyrenean passes are connected by a stunning 10-kilometer mountain road carved into the northern slope of Pic de Taillades. They are located about 30 km south of Tarbes and Pau in the French region of Aquitaine. The route from the higher Col d'Aubisque (1709 m) to the lower Col de Soulor (1474 m) descends to 1330 m through the Cirque du Litor.
09/2024
The Col d'Aubisque pass crosses the northern slopes of Pic du Jer (2613 m), linking the mountain towns of Laruns to the west and Argelès-Gazost to the east. The road is usually closed from December to early June. The Tour de France first crossed the Col d’Aubisque in 1910, with François Lafourcade being the first to reach the summit. One of the most notable moments was in 1951 when Dutch rider Wim van Est slipped off the road and fell into a 20-meter ravine. Since the tow rope from the team car wasn’t long enough, his manager tied together 40 bike tires to pull him up. Later, van Est used the incident in an ad campaign with the slogan: “My heart stopped during the fall, but my Pontiac watch didn’t.”
Col d'Aubisque from Laruns
Length: 16.6 km
Elevation gain: 1190 m
Average gradient: 7.2%
Maximum gradient: 13%
From the Gave d'Ossau valley, the D918 road splits off just after the town of Laruns. Continuing south would take you across the border into Spain via the Col du Pourtalet pass (1794 m). The first few kilometers to Eaux-Bonnes offer a relatively gentle ascent. This spa town on the Le Valentin River has seen better days, with most of its grand hotels boarded up and in disrepair. Behind the town hall stands a modern spa facility with a glass dome on its roof, but it too seems deserted. After Eaux-Bonnes, sections of 13% gradient through the forest follow. The climb gradually eases as the road hugs the river. You’ll pass a turnoff to the Via Ferrata de Siala on the opposite rock face. After crossing another bridge, the road leads to the ski resort of Gourette. Its center is two hairpin bends higher up, around 1400 meters. A cable car and a road with two switchbacks lead from a large parking lot. Originally a mining settlement, Gourette later became a winter sports resort with roots dating back to the 19th century. Near the top of the resort, just off the road, stands the Church of Our Lady, built in 1969.
There are 4 km left to the pass. Halfway up, there’s a perfect spot for a scenic coffee break. The Les Crêtes Blanches restaurant juts out from a sharp bend on a ridge, offering incredible views from its terrace. The building looks like a power plant from below, a horror movie set from the driveway, and a museum from inside. The friendly lady serving there makes excellent coffee. You can enjoy views of Pic de Jer and the entire ski resort for free. It’s much nicer than the summit restaurant, which has a “cabin in the woods” vibe. As we pass through heathland, wild horses graze in the distance. At the summit, three oversized colorful bicycles make for a popular photo spot.
Cirque du Litor
A short descent and climb take you through one of the most scenic parts of the route. The narrow road clings to steep slopes and occasionally disappears into short tunnels. Along the road, you’ll find a little house where an old man in rubber boots leans against a car, smoking. A sign nearby reads “vente de fromage” (cheese for sale). Inside the house are several wheels of cheese and a scale. A stop for some homemade sheep cheese is definitely worth it, though cycling jersey pockets aren’t the best for carrying it. A gentle climb brings you to Col de Soulor, where there’s ongoing construction (09/2024). Next season, visitors can look forward to a new hotel.
Tour from Asson
A 90-kilometer route with a total elevation gain of 1880 meters can be planned from the town of Asson, the lowest point on the loop. The route gently climbs through Bruges and Louvie-Juzon before reaching Laruns. After enjoying the ascent to Col d'Aubisque and the scenic ridge to Col de Soulor, you’ll descend northwards through Ferriéres and Arthes-d'Asson. Be cautious during the descent, as herds of livestock roam freely on the road, often leaving behind some “surprises.” While admiring the soaring eagles, it's easy to miss the occasional “gift” in the middle of the road—and even easier to hit one.
Col de Soulor (1474 m)
Col de Soulor is the smaller neighbor of the more famous Col d'Aubisque, but it’s nearly impossible to skip. And it would be a shame to do so. Three roads meet at the summit. The D918 comes from the west over Col d'Aubisque and continues east to Argèles-Gazost. From the north, the D126 connects with Asson.
Col de Soulor from the east (Argèles-Gazost)
Length: 19.5 km
Elevation gain: 1019 m
Average gradient: 5.2%
Maximum gradient: 10%
The steepest sections are above Arrens-Marsous
Col de Soulor from the north (Asson)
Length: 22 km
Elevation gain: 1074 m
Average gradient: 4.9%
Maximum gradient: 9%
The main climb begins after Ferriéres, following the L'Ouzom River valley, continuing past Aebéost, and then climbing over meadows and pastures to the summit.
From Col de Soulor to Col d'Aubisque
Length: 9.7 km
Elevation gain: 450 m
Descent: 150 m
For those looking for more, there’s an additional climb to the quiet Col de Spandelles. The road splits from the D126 just below Ferriéres and climbs 905 meters over 10.4 kilometers. To the east, it descends back into Argèles-Gazost.
Comments