Rock climbing guide to Prague

Prague is not flat. Thanks god. People usually come for the historical center and cheap beer, but there is much more you can do in the city. Not only trail running and biking, but also rock climbing is possible without even leaving the czech capital. Here are some tips where to go and how to get there

Mostly UIAA grading system is used here, some of the topos might be just an old drawing.


Borová skála


GPS: 50.0387147N, 14.3553758E


My favorite place in Prague is definitely Prokop Valley (Prokopské údolí). It is a natural protected area and some regulations should be respected. The approach is recommended from above, not from the valley across the stream. You also need to be a member of ČHS - Český horolezecký svaz (Czech Mountaineering Association) to climb here legally.

Borová skála is a well equipped and maintained sport climbing crag divided into two sectors. Borová skála and Borová skála - pravý amfiteátr (right amphitheater).

There are two ways how to get there by public transportation. One is from Metro B station Nové Butovice walking approx. 2,5 km. The other comes from tram station Poliklinika Barrandov in Barrandov neighbourhood. There is an advantage of a small brewery on the way back, so you can refresh yourself with a local beer before you get back to the tram.

Once you get to the meadow above the rock (yellow marked tourist trail), you just follow down the path and first routes are on your left. Walking down along the crag, there are more routes, until you get to the small ramp where the left sector ends. The foot of the right amphiteather is few meters lower, so you can use some of the maintained trails, or carefully downclimb using a fixed rope.

There are usually many local climbers during sunny afternoons.


More info (in czech) and topos here:

https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-skala-8707/

https://www.skalnioblasti.cz/5_index.asp?cmd=6&skala_id=12125


Hlubočepské plotny


50.0430742N, 14.3912456E - left; 50.0431819N, 14.3924039E - right

Climbing here, you feel like in a railway model landscape. There is even one route called Železniční cesta 6+ (Railway route). It starts with a nice corner and continues on a slab. The view from the top is amazing.

It is a part of the same natural protected area as Borová skála. Both of them are former limestone mines.

From the tram line going to Barrandov, you can see these two crags across the valley. And when you see it, you just know you want to explore it. The best approach is from the Nádraží Hlubočepy bus and train station. From here hike up to the railway and cross it over a pedestrian bridge. Turn right to the railway and there is the right slab (Pravá plotna).

Hlubočepské plotny (slabs) are divided into left and right. The right one is just above the railway, so the belayer stays on it. There are not many trains passing and they don’t go fast, but pay attention. Trains do this turn to get some height from Smíchov station. That’s why it is also called Prague Semmering. There are some corners with easy routes on the right, one difficult slab in the middle, which ends with the Železniční route corner. Famous route is Velký kout 6+ on the very left ot the right slab.

To get to the Left slab, hike a bit further and cross the scree slope that divides them. There are Levá (left) and Malá (small) plotna. Both of them are slabs, just the angle differs. Malá plotna offers shorter and easier routes. The Levá plotna is steeper.

Helmet is always a good recommendation. Small stones can fall especially from the right slab.

Once you get to the top, you can see the next location over the river - Branické skály (Braník rocks)


More info (in czech) and topos here:

https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-sektor-1100/


Branické skály


GPS: 50.0422575N, 14.4126081E


Former limestone mine on a former edge of Prague. Today it is five minutes walk from the tram station and the surroundings got much nicer. During the WWII, they dug some tunnels doop to the rock to hide an underground factory, but they are not accessible now. There is a cycling path along the river on the other side of the road and couple of restaurant near the tram station.

Braník rock is an inclined slab on the left side with some easy routes. The right side offert some overhangs. Make sure your rope is long enough. Some routes are longer than they seem to be - up to 40 m. Helmet is a must here. Slabs are eroded and falling stones are common.

Sunny afternoons are usually busy here because of the accessibility.


More info (in czech) and topos here:

https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-sektor-147/

http://www.lezec.cz/pruvodcx.php?key=2697


Skalka - Kotlářka


GPS: 50.0705803N, 14.3621539E


You wouldn't expect a climbing crag here. It’s not big, it’s not even much protected…it is just an afternoon trac climb right at the tram station. Take a tram from Anděl up to Kotlářka station and the rock is about 100 metres from the road. It is partly hidden in the forest surrounding hill. This is a small Natural Protected Park called Skalka within the Košíře district.

It is also a former mine. Stone from here was used

There are few slab routes up to 10 m and only some of them are protected with bolts. You need your own gear for most of them.


More info (in czech) and topos here:


https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-skala-15843/


Divoká Šárka


50.1006364N, 14.3222578E


Divoká (Wild) Šárka is a nature reserve on the northwestern outskirts of Prague close to the airport. It is a rocky gorge with plenty of options for climbing. The name Wild Šárka reminds female warrior Šárka, who, according to the legends, threw herself to her death from its cliffs after betraying her lover Ctirad during the Maidens' War.

There is a natural swimming pool deep in the valley, which is a bit shady most of the day. A much bigger one, dam called Džbán is within a walking distance.

The approach is from the Evropská street which connects Dejvice district with the airport. Tram station is called Divoká Šárka. There is also a parking nearby.

You can experience a real trad climbing, protecting the route with your own gear. Even multi pitch routes are to be found here. It is one of the oldest climbing spots in and around Prague. There are more than hundred routes all around the valley.

Bring a real mountain gear including helmet and enjoy the climb.


More info (in czech) and topos here:

https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-sektor-545/


And there are more options further from the center both on the north (Údolí Únětického potoka, Řež) and the south (Černá skála u Řevnic, Černolice…).


Prague is also a convenient base for one-day trips to Vltava Granite and many others.